Driven by vampire lore and mystery appeal, Transylvania has become Romania’s most popular region for travelers. But legends aside, this magical land of castles, medieval bastions and old-world villages packs in a lot of charm.
A paradise for nature and adventure seekers, the vast wilderness of the Carpathian Mountains preserves some of the last virgin forests in Europe and a simpler way of life. Here are the things you need to know before you explore “the land beyond the forest” – the literal translation of Transylvania’s medieval name.
1. Dracula is just a myth, or is it?
Transylvania is famous for its vampire legends and bloodthirsty Count Dracula, popularised by Bram Stoker’s 1897 fantasy novel. But the Vlad Ţepeş that inspired the book was very real – referred to throughout history as “Vlad the Impaler” for his agonizing method of empaling his enemies on long spikes.
In fact, the 15th-century prince of Wallachia never actually lived at clifftop Bran Castle – popularly known as Dracula’s Castle and attracting close to one million visitors per year. Nor did Stoker himself ever set foot in Transylvania.
But the castle is still a must-visit on any Transylvania trip. Try to come during the off-season, to avoid long lines. Better yet, arrange a private tour at night without the crowds, when the atmosphere is more suitably eerie for a fortress famed for spooky mystery.
2. Transylvania has castles in abundance
If you find Bran Castle too crowded, there are many more castles to keep you busy in Transylvania. Just 50km (31 miles) south of Bran, the mountain resort of Sinaia has the country’s most resplendent castle –Peleș Castle, picked by King Carol I of Romania as a summer residence in 1875 due to its magnificent Bucegi Mountains backdrop. The flamboyant neo-Renaissance architecture honors the family’s German heritage.
A 20-minute train ride to Bușteni will take you to Cantacuzino Castle, a neo-Romanian castle built on the orders of Prince Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino, prime minister of Romania in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Set on the premises of a former hunting lodge, this was the filming location for the Nevermore Academy in Tim Burton’s ultra-popular Addams Family spin-off, Wednesday, on Netflix.
3. Medieval towns are everywhere
Romania’s medieval past bursts to life across Transylvania. Start by exploring the Siebenbürgen, the “seven citadels” built by Saxon merchants brought in to protect the region from invading Turks and Tatars in the 12th and 13th centuries.
One of the best-preserved fortress towns, Brașov is picture-perfect with its tall Gothic spires and orange-hued rooftops. Conveniently close to the Poiana Brașov ski resort, it’s the most visited destination in Romania, and a brand-new international airport was inaugurated in 2023, providing easy access. Just outside Brașov at the foot of Mount Tâmpa – accessible on foot or by cable car – a Hollywood-like white-lettered sign glistens on the horizon.
Head to storybook Sighișoara to explore the last inhabited medieval fortress in Europe and its 14th-century clock tower, as well as the rainbow-colored buildings of Sighișoara‘s UNESCO-listed old town. A former European Capital of Culture, nearby Sibiu charms with its peculiar “houses with eyes” – buildings of Saxon heritage, graced with eyelid-shaped windows on their rooftops.
4. Transylvania is a multi-ethnic, multi-faith region
Set in a verdant landscape, small towns and villages settled hundreds of years ago preserve a form of multiculturalism specific to Transylvania. Alongside Saxon settlers with their Germanic influences, Transylvania has a large Hungarian community dating back to the time of the Kingdom of Hungary and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Big cities such as Cluj-Napoca and Târgu Mureș stand testament to an enduring convergence of cultures. Similarly, while most of Romania is Christian-Orthodox, churches of other denominations abound, hosting congregations speaking multiple languages.
5. Authentic Transylvania endures in the villages
To get a real feel for the Transylvanian idyll, head to the villages and enjoy some slow travel. Seven Transylvanian villages are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list because of their fortified churches – six of them Saxon and one Székely – and traditional crafts are still practiced, with authentic Saxon houses wonderfully restored in bright colors.
While the German-speaking population of Romania has declined since the collapse of Communism in 1989, conservation efforts and ecotourism have flourished in this former Saxon heartland. Plan a stay in a traditional guesthouse in Biertan or Viscri, to wake up to the sound of bird song and the smell of wood smoke wafting through the crisp morning air. Staying at Casa Eva Wagner in Biertan, the Fortified Church of Biertan, the largest of its kind, is in full view as you soak in an alfresco hot tub.
6. Beware Transylvania’s ever-present bears
The Carpathian Mountains are home to a huge variety of wildlife, from wolves and lynxes to chamois antelopes. The mountains also provide a home for Europe’s largest population of brown bears – some 8000 of them, a number that has significantly increased thanks to the efforts of conservationists.
Bear-spotting is exciting and sightings are almost guaranteed when traveling on mountain roads, but staying alert is key. In recent years, bears have started migrating out of their natural habitats, descending into mountain resorts and attacking farm livestock. It’s not uncommon to receive warning R0-ALERT text messages or see posters at hotels warning about the presence of bears while traveling in the region.
Many tourists make the mistake of feeding bears, which raises the risk of dangerous encounters. After a fatal bear attack, Romania introduced a bear control law in 2024 to reduce the growing bear population. Stay safe by making noise when moving through woodland areas, and stay clear of bears with cubs.
To see bears safely, visit the Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Zărnești, where 100 brown bears have been rescued from harsh living conditions in captivity, and now roam free in 69 hectares (170.5 acres) of coniferous forests.
7. Romania offers some amazing road trips
Dubbed the best drive in the world by the motor show Top Gear, the Transfăgărășan road is a thrilling bucket list experience. Connecting Transylvania with historic Wallachia, and winding up and over the highest peaks of the Făgăraş Mountains, the journey peaks at 2034m (6673ft) near the glacier lake of Bâlea with its cascading waterfall. En route, you can spot the rugged ruins of Poienari Citadel, the real residence of Vlad the Impaler.
This lofty highway was constructed in the 1970s as a response to the 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet Union. Nicolae Ceaușescu wanted a safe route across the mountains for his troops should the same happen in Romania, but the road is only usable by traffic in summer. Come from mid-June to the end of October, and check the road is open before you head into the mountains, as sporting events and bad weather can close the route temporarily.
8. Be ready to be stuffed with grub by locals
You wouldn’t be in Romania if you didn’t feel open to eating more than you planned. Rural hospitality generally works on the premise that ‘more is more’, and in Transylvania, the food and drinks are particularly enticing.
Local specialties include rose hip jam and the rich tarragon soups that are a specialty of the area, typically served with a shot of pungent pălincă – a plum brandy containing between 40 and 50% alcohol – to start things off. To experience Transylvanian hospitality at its finest, set aside a few days to stay at a family guesthouse that grows its own food, where you can enjoy wholesome country fare in abundance.
9. Transylvania is a great place to hike
For active immersion into bucolic village life, the bedrock of the Romanian experience, try trekking the new long-distance Via Transilvanica trail, crossing seven of Romania’s historical regions. Inaugurated in October 2022, the route is already a Europa Nostra award winner for its pioneering role in promoting sustainable local development and heritage protection. Following this 1420km-long hiking, cycling and horseback riding trail is like stepping back in time into rural communities that have barely changed in generations.
Passing by a string of fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the “path that unites” is the most complete journey you can take into the forests and lush meadows of Transylvania and beyond. Along the way, you’ll meet and lodge with villagers who grow their own food, travel in horse-drawn carts and harvest hay to dry in the sunshine. as they have for centuries.
10. You can stay in a king’s retreat
Unexpectedly, Transylvania is a favorite destination for King Charles III. The English monarch has been making regular visits to Transylvania since 1998. As most European royal families are distantly related, it turns out Vlad The Impaler is also his ancestor!
Fascinated by the region’s unaltered beauty, King Charles is heavily involved in the conservation of Transylvania’s rural heritage, restoring a number of Saxon farmhouses that visitors can book for overnight stays, including a private nature retreat in the Zalán Valley just north of Brașov, built in the 17rh century and restored in authentic Transylvanian style.
The King’s House in Viscri is a testament to the monarch’s passion for traditional architecture, sustainable agriculture and conserving biodiversity. Open to the public between April and October, it hosts exhibits and training sessions promoting local craftsmanship.
This article was first published May 28, 2019 and updated Aug 20, 2024.
