No country has it all. Switzerland comes pretty close.
Here, almost every drive, train journey, boat trip or cable car ride can take on epic proportions – next to thundering falls, across dramatic gorges, through valleys hidden deep in the mountains or across rolling vineyards. Cities with medieval old towns, world-class contemporary architecture and extraordinary art collections are often just a whisper away from vivid turquoise lakes and the glacier-capped Alps. The transition between urban pleasures and country pursuits is effortless here.
So float down the Rhine in Basel. Admire Paul Klee’s dreamy works in Bern. Hike below the mighty Matterhorn. Feel the thrill of ice at the Aletsch Glacier. Sip Chasselas wines in the terraced vineyards of the Lavaux as the last sun touches Lake Geneva.
These are just a few of the best things to do in Switzerland.
1. Take the Eiger Express to Jungfraujoch
You’ve got to hand it to the Swiss: they are always ahead of the game. Since 1912, a little red train, fueled by hydro-power from the outset, has wound its way through the icy heart of Eiger up to Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest train station at 3454m (11,332ft). Just recently, the journey has become even more eco-friendly thanks to Grindelwald’s Eiger Express, a super-speedy tri-cable gondola that covers the first leg of the journey using its wheels to generate green power. The ride will make you gasp out loud as you float above the landscape, with spruce forests and log chalets giving way to a realm of rock and ice. You’ll get so close to Eiger’s beastly, mile-high North Face that you’ll feel as though you might slam right into it.
At the top of UNESCO World Heritage-listed Jungfraujoch, temperatures drop, and the world is always white. You’ll be wowed by the view from the Sphinx observation deck, reaching across a sea of snow-capped 4000m (13,123ft) peaks and the 23km (14.2-mile) swirl of the Aletsch Glacier, with Germany and France hovering in the distance. The frosty Ice Palace is a wonderland of ice tunnels and sculptures – they are impressive today but must have been even more so back when mountaineers first hacked them out by pickaxe in the 1930s.
Planning tip: Bring warm layers and boots, particularly if you fancy the 45-minute stomp to Mönchsjochhütte, Switzerland’s highest-serviced mountain hut.
2. Admire the Aletsch Glacier
As you journey into the remote Goms valley in Valais, the Alps take a turn for the wild. Hamlets brim with sun-blackened chalets, with flower-freckled meadows sweeping up to the mountains. The Matterhorn gets all the fuss, but just as arresting is the Aletsch Glacier, the jewel in the crown of the Jungfrau-Aletsch region. Powering past wispy waterfalls, rock spires and the dagger-shaped summit of Aletschhorn (4193m/13,756ft) like a six-lane glacial superhighway, this 23km (14-mile) swirl of deeply crevassed ice is the longest and most voluminous glacier in the Alps.
Observe the glacier from the viewpoint, or – for close-ups – hit the trail on the 17km (10.5-mile), 5-to-6-hour hike from Fiescheralp to Bettmeralp where every bend in the ice reveals phenomenal views and the odd Valais Blacknose sheep. If you prefer instant thrills, wobble across the Aletschji–Grünsee Suspension Bridge, which straddles the 80m(262ft)-deep Massa Gorge.
Planning tip: Reaching the glacier is part of the fun. From Fiesch, take the cable car up to Fiescheralp, then beyond to Eggishorn for your first glimpse of the mighty Aletsch.
3. Pass through tunnels and over viaducts aboard the Glacier Express
No country nails rail travel like Switzerland, where little red trains (all spit-shined and perfectly punctual) chug from valley to peak with ease, leaving you to swoon over the Alpine scenery from the comfort of your panoramic carriage. Evoking a golden age of travel, Switzerland’s train journeys are among the finest in the world.
The true bucket-list journey in Switzerland is aboard the Glacier Express, which crosses over the Furka, Oberalp and Bernina passes on the 8-hour ride between Zermatt and St Moritz in Graubünden’s Upper Engadin. Riveting views of meadows, forests, fast-flowing turquoise rivers, canyons, castles, big-shouldered mountains and glaciers keep you glued to the window. The entire journey is a remarkable feat of 1930s engineering, with special mention going to the Landwasser viaduct – the gravity-defying, six-arched bridge that leaps between Tiefencastel and Filisur, and the Oberalp Pass (2033m/6670ft), revealing the true wilderness of the Swiss Alps.
Planning tip: If you want to save a few francs, regularly scheduled services plying the same route can be just as enjoyable and significantly less expensive. Break up the journey by using cheaper SBB trains and overnighting along the way.
4. Float down the Rhine in Basel
At the point where Switzerland, Germany and France converge, Basel brims with avant-garde art and architecture, with a raft of galleries ranking up there with Europe’s best. But this city also likes to let its mind drift.
Cue the Rhine, in which office workers ditch their suits to take a dip, and at which families gather for a city swim on weekends. A novel way to see Basel is to grab a Wickelfisch (a fish-shaped waterproof bag to keep your stuff dry), make for the river banks in Kleinbasel, then strip to your swimsuit and float past city landmarks as the current carries you gently downstream. If you prefer to keep your head above water, rent a stand-up paddle board or join a tour with Birs73. Locals like to end their dip socially, with drinks and a sunbathe at a buvette (riverside bar), especially on hot summer days.
Planning tip: Hop in just below Museum Tinguely to float 3km (1.8 miles) down the Rhine, or plot your own route by taking a look at the map. You can buy a Wickelfisch at the tourist office in central Barfüsserplatz.
5. Look up at the Milky Way from your bed
Up in the Alps, when darkness falls, the only sound is the gentle chime of cowbells. And even higher up, constellations and distant planets sprinkle the sky like handfuls of glitter. Harnessing the wild, Million Stars Hotel is a huge collection of open-air, one-of-a-kind accommodations across the country where you can slip back to nature and enjoy a little pre-bedtime stargazing.
And these aren’t just canvas tents. These imaginative overnighters are ones that you’ll be raving about for years to come – from beautifully made-up beds on top of remote mountains to a stylishly converted gondola on the edge of a crag, a bed under an apple tree and a “beehive” pod with views of Eiger’s mile-high North Face. And with this being Switzerland, they’re all not just clever but comfortable, too.
Planning tip: As each place only sleeps two, advance booking is highly advisable. Most are open from July to October.
6. Chase thrills in Ticino’s valleys
In the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino in southern Switzerland, the lakes get all the love. But when you dip into Ticino’s hidden valleys, you’ll lose the crowds and find the region’s true pulse. Here, glassy, jewel-colored rivers flow past chestnut woods and incredibly pretty granite hilltop hamlets (including Switzerland’s smallest, Corippo, with a population of just 15). After a day’s hike or bike ride, you can kick back on the vine-swathed terrace of a rustic grotti (tavern) for polenta and brasato (beef braised in red wine) with a glass of the beefy local merlot.
The wild, woody Valle Maggia is a magnet for mountain bikers and hikers, thanks to its 700km (435 miles) of trails, including the challenging 52km (32-mile), six-day Via Alta. For more adventure, head over to the rugged Val Verzasca, bisected by its namesake emerald river and crisscrossed by the Sentiero Verzasca trail. Every Alpine activity imaginable is offered in this valley, from hiking and cycling to rafting, bouldering, paragliding and bungee jumping from the 220m (656ft) Verzasca Dam, which starred in the opening scene of GoldenEye. Swissraft can make it happen.
7. Experience the untouched Alps at Swiss National Park
For a taste of the Alps as they might have looked before an era of mass tourism, head southeast to the Swiss National Park in Graubünden’s Lower Engadin Valley, where the mountains nudge their way over into Italy. Easily accessed from the quaint villages of Scuol, Zernez and S-chanf, Switzerland’s only national park is a 172-sq-km (66-sq-mile) visual feast of rushing streams, high moors, pastures, glaciers, larch, pine woods and lakes. Here, nature has been left totally to its own devices, with no trees felled, no meadows cut, and no animals hunted since the park was established in 1914.
The only way to properly see the park is by lacing up boots and heading for its trail-dense core. If you only have time for one walk, make it Lakes of Macun, a 21km (13-mile) day hike from Zernez, leading to a high Alpine plateau splashed with 23 lakes that shimmer in shades of topaz and sapphire. If you prefer, you can join a guided walk with one of the park rangers (you can book these at the visitor center in Zernez). With an expert in tow, you stand better chances of spotting rarities like wild edelweiss, ibex, chamois, golden eagles and bearded vultures.
Planning tip: Camping is off-limits, but you can stay overnight in the park at the gloriously remote Chamanna Cluozza. At 1882m (6174ft) above sea level, this is quite possibly the off-grid log cabin of your wildest Alpine dreams. The hut is reached on a moderately challenging 3½-hour uphill hike from Zernez. Bring your own sleeping bag. A boat on the blue waters of Lake Lucerne, surrounded by mist-covered mountains
8. Admire the mountains from a boat on Lake Lucerne
While there are higher mountains in Switzerland than those lining the fjord-like shores of Lake Lucerne, none are more enshrined in flag-waving Swiss myth. Aboard a boat on Lake Uri, you’ll glimpse Rütli Meadow, the hallowed birthplace of the Swiss Confederation in 1291. You can also experience the Tellskapelle, a tiny, frescoed chapel that is said to be where the apple-shooting hero and beloved Swiss rebel William Tell escaped from the boat of his Habsburg captor, Gessler.
Legends swirl like storm clouds over the mountains on the doorstep of Lucerne. Since 1889, the world’s steepest cogwheel railway has been rattling up 2128m(6981ft)-high Mt Pilatus, where the restless ghost of Roman prefect Pontius Pilate is said to still roam. Never mind the spooky stories – you’ll be captivated by the views reaching as far as Germany’s Black Forest on cloudless days. Its rival for sheer beauty is 1797m Mt Rigi (5895ft), famous for its painterly sunrises and sunsets and once a source of fascination to JMW Turner, who painted it in three different moods.
Planning tip: Lucerne makes an appealing base for exploring the lake, with its Old Town, medieval wooden bridge and promenade strung along the lakeshore.
9. Get your culture fix in Bern
Bern offers a refreshingly easy-going vibe, parks and alfresco cafes and resident bears. The city is certainly a looker, situated on a sharp bend in the startlingly turquoise Aare River, encircled by gentle hills and with views of the snow-frosted Alps on crisp, clear days. And you can get your cultural kicks here, too.
Begin with a romp around the Altstadt, Bern’s medieval, cobblestoned, flag-bedecked heart. Here you’ll spy the ornate Zytglogge clock (come at four minutes before the hour for the glockenspiel parade); the 15th-century Gothic Münster (hike up its lofty spire, Switzerland’s tallest, for far-reaching views over the rooftops); and many folkloric fountains, including the Kindlifresserbrunnen, depicting a giant snacking on children.
Museum-wise, Bern is a treat. Tour the apartment where Einstein lived and the magnificent Kunstmuseum, home to Renaissance masterpieces, as well as works by Monet and Picasso. Make the short hop out to Renzo Piano’s bold, wave-like Zentrum Paul Klee to see the color-charged works of this Swiss-born German artist.
Detour: Break up sightseeing with a wild swim in the Aare River. When the weather warms, join Berners for a cooling downstream float.
10. Tackle the switchbacks of the Furka Pass
This high, twisty, up-and-over-the-Alps drive from the isolated valley of the Goms in Valais to mountain-encrusted Andermatt in Uri is the gateway to southeast Switzerland. Expect both stomach-flipping hairpin bends and gob-smacking views.
Drive the 31km (19-mile) Furka Pass from west to east to maximize the drama as dark, craggy peaks and glaciers fill your rear-view mirror. If you have a bit of a Bond moment behind the wheel, it’s no coincidence – this road starred in the car chase scene in the 1964 movie Goldfinger. As you swing dizzily around switchbacks, the road tops out at the 2429m (7969ft) Furka Pass itself, where you can peer across the lunar rockscape of a wind-battered plateau to the deeply crevassed Rhône Glacier and its ice grotto before the long, sweeping descent to Andermatt.
Planning tip: The road is open roughly from June to October (depending on snow) – but be sure to check conditions before heading out.
11. Walk among the vineyards of Lavaux
In the country’s western crook, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Lavaux vineyards are heaven on earth to oenophiles. The world’s steepest vineyards stagger up the terraced hills above Lake Geneva. If you’ve never heard of them, it’s because the hand-picked wines are so select and small-batch that the Swiss keep most of them to themselves, and few bottles ever reach export.
Before hitting the caveaux (wine cellars) for a petite dégustation (tasting), brush up your wine knowledge. It’s said that these grapes are blessed by three suns: the one in the sky, the one on the lake and the one radiating heat from the dry-stone walls. The main grape is Chasselas, a very old variety producing crisp, flinty white wines with a fresh, citrusy nose. The fruity reds (gamay, pinot noir and Salvagnin) make up just 20% of production.
You can drive the meandering roads that loop around 40km (25 miles) of shore or take the Lavaux Panoramic Train, but you’ll get a better feel for the Lavaux by heading out on foot. Little trails dip into the vines everywhere, but top billing goes to the 11km (6.8-mile) trail from St-Saphorin to Lutry, where you’ll take in stirring views, pretty villages and welcoming cellars.
Planning tip: For a great primer on Lavaux wines, stop off at Vinorama in Rivaz. Housed in a strikingly revamped bunker, the lakefront center speeds you through the wine-growing process, and you can sample dozens of different wines in the Espace Dégustation.
12. Fall under the spell of the Matterhorn
Nothing sums up Switzerland’s outdoor-loving spirit better than the Matterhorn, the peak that has broken many a rock climber’s rope – and which even has a chocolate bar (Toblerone) shaped in its honor. As you arrive in Zermatt on the train that chugs from Täsch, you won’t be able to stop yourself from obsessively gawping at that mountain.
And who could blame you? Razoring up above the Italian border in southern Valais, this 4478m (14,691ft) fang of rock and ice is utterly mesmerizing, especially when seen from above. You can ski, hike or climb in its pyramid-shaped shadow by riding the world’s highest-altitude 3S cable car to the 3883m(12,739ft)-high Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, on the Klein Matterhorn, with views reaching deep into the Swiss, French and Italian Alps.
For close-ups of the melting ice, hook onto the 2-hour, 6.5km (4-mile), moderately challenging Matterhorn Glacier Trail. When the flakes fall in winter, you can pound the powder on 360km (223 miles) of ski runs, some of which dip over the border into Italy and nearly all of which offer distractingly lovely views of the Matterhorn.
Planning tip: If you have some climbing experience under your belt, you can climb your way to the top with an Alpine guide.
This article was first published Sep 20, 2022 and updated Oct 3, 2024.
