New Orleans’ French Quarter captures the headlines, but locals and regular visitors are drawn to the city’s historic Garden District, home to some of the best-preserved historic homes in the American South.
You’ll find more than just architecture to enjoy in this verdant corner of New Orleans. The beautiful Garden District lives up to its name with abundant green spaces and tree-lined avenues; there are few areas as pleasant to explore anywhere in town.
Sprawling north of the Mississippi River, the Garden District is defined by spreading live (evergreen) oak trees, shady lanes, whirring streetcars, strolling college students, mansions and apartment buildings that resemble mansions, and all manner of quirky businesses. Exploring the neighborhood is a highlight of any trip to the Big Easy.
For newcomers to New Orleans’ charms, here’s our guide to getting the best from your first trip to the Garden District.
Where to find the Garden District of New Orleans
The area is part of Uptown New Orleans – and here, “uptown” means upriver from the city center on the north bank of the Mississippi. Downtown refers to neighborhoods downriver from the center, such as the famous French Quarter. Rather confusingly, the Garden District is not part of the neighborhood of Uptown, which lies to the west.
While the French Quarter was settled by early Creole (French and Iberian) arrivals to the city, the Garden District was founded by English-speaking Americans who arrived in the early 19th century. These well-to-do new arrivals sought to distance themselves slightly from Francophone New Orleans, settling outside the city’s central hub.
Today, the Garden District is the fancy part of town, where some of the city’s most opulent mansions were built in past centuries. In the 21st century, you can still spot many of those historic residences, as well as more contemporary signposts of wealth, such as yoga studios and locavore fine-dining establishments.
Things to do in the Garden District
To get a feel for the Garden District, immerse yourself in the following activities. The neighborhood is easily accessible from other parts of New Orleans via the St Charles Ave Streetcar.
Stroll the famous gothic Lafayette Cemetery No 1
Because of the low elevation and high water table, New Orleans residents were traditionally interred in “cities of the dead” – necropolises full of above-ground tombs and mausoleums. Of all the iconic graveyards in New Orleans, few can match the sheer gothic creepiness of Lafayette Cemetery No 1, where vines and vegetation grow up around ornate funerary monuments. Expect serious Anne Rice vibes.
Admire grand historic homes on St Charles Ave
One of the most beautiful urban thoroughfares in the country, St Charles Ave forms the northern border of the Garden District. All along its length, the street is fronted by a grand assemblage of mansions – whose architectural beauty and varied forms lend a tangible air of glamor to the neighborhood.
The best way to see St Charles is by taking one of the dark green streetcars that trundle the length and breadth of the Garden District. Like hundreds of locals, you can also walk or jog along the “neutral ground” – the leafy median that divides the street, housing the streetcar tracks.
Pro tip: Don’t overlook nearby Prytania St, which runs parallel to St Charles – it’s packed with more gorgeous historic homes.
Shop independent stores along Magazine St
Forming the southern border of the Garden District, Magazine St lacks enormous, opulent homes, but it’s dotted with cafes, shops and other businesses catering to college students and well-heeled locals. This commercial area once consisted almost entirely of independent boutiques, but rising property values, rents and taxes have seen the arrival of a few chains. Houses here are on a smaller scale than around St Charles Ave, as the land set aside for grand homes was subdivided over the decades into smaller lots.
Where to eat in the Garden District
Gourmands will be in their element in the Garden District, with restaurants and cafes serving everything from old-style New Orleans gastronomy to the latest foodie fads.
Indulge in fine Creole cuisine at Commander’s Palace
New Orleans is famous for fine-dining temples to Creole cuisine, which blends the sauce-y richness of French gastronomy with African and Native American cooking techniques and local Louisiana ingredients. And of all the legacy restaurants in the city, few have the sheer institutional presence of Commander’s Palace.
Housed in a turquoise-and-white mansion you can practically see from space, the restaurant has an enormous white-linen-draped dining hall that has welcomed generations of New Orleanians looking to indulge in the city’s signature gastronomy. It all tastes better as part of the 25-cent-martini special lunch menu – a decadent idea for a midday feast.
Order a classic sandwich from Stein’s Deli
The po’boy – meat or seafood stuffed inside a fluffy French stick – is the iconic New Orleans sandwich, but if you’re looking for something else served between two pieces of bread, it’s hard to beat Stein’s Deli on Magazine St.
This is a stop for classic lunch-counter fare from the American Northeast – Reubens sandwiches, corned beef specials, Italian hoagies and more, served alongside refrigerators full of good beer by staff who brook no nonsense. The ordering procedure may feel weird on crowded days (which are most days) – find the end of the line, wait your turn, then order with confidence so as not to miss your slot.
Refill with a healthy bowl at Poke Loa
Poke is hardly traditional New Orleans fare, but (as everywhere) it’s increasingly popular in the Big Easy, reflecting the growing popularity of healthy eating, superfoods and gluten-free ingredients. Poke Loa, popular with students and the business crowd, is a great spot for a fix.
Drinking spots in the Garden District
There are plenty of places to pause for refreshment in the Garden District – something you’ll want to do more frequently in summer as the sticky humidity builds. Buskers on Magazine St lend a carnival mood to proceedings year-round.
Grab a drink at the unassuming Verret’s Lounge
In a neighborhood that is understandably considered fancy, Verret’s Lounge is an appealingly scruffy dive bar where youngsters rub elbows with grizzled regulars, and everyone has a good time. The vibe is friendly, unassuming and decidedly old-school – expect no bespoke craft cocktails here! It’s an easy stroll north from the Lafayette Cemetery.
Enjoy a sundowner amid the fairy lights at Bulldog
Popular with Tulane University students and alumni, post-shift doctors, suit-wearers clocking off work and anyone else who likes a good beer, the Bulldog on Magazine St boasts dozens of brews and a cozy, easygoing atmosphere. The big draw is the courtyard, with a funky fountain formed from a long row of beer taps.
Where to stay in the Garden District
There are plenty of places to stay in this cultured quarter, with many hotels and B&Bs set in fine historic homes. You’ll also find a calmer mood than in the French Quarter or the CBD.
Embrace the romance of the Sully Mansion B&B
This beautiful, tidy bed-and-breakfast offers a quintessential Garden District stay, with fine rooms and an upscale but casual aesthetic. Here’s your chance to sleep in – rather than just gawk at – a historic mansion. It’s got all the bells and whistles you’d expect: a wedding cake design, a garden, a breezy terrace and an enormous wraparound porch.
Enjoy chic contemporary style at Henry Howard Hotel
Located just east of the Garden District, the Henry Howard occupies a converted 1867 double-gallery townhouse, balancing an exposed-brick historic vibe with a minimalist-chic design sensibility. The property is within easy walking distance of the lively nightlife scene in the Lower Garden District – the next neighborhood downriver from the Garden District.
