It may be synonymous with Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but the beguiling city of Verona, on the mighty Adige River, is nudging its way onto many an Italy must-visit list.
Rome, Milan, Florence and Venice may be top-of-mind for many but “fair Verona” has everything you could want in an Italian city break, and you won’t leave wondering “where were the locals?” (they’re sitting right next to you – and possibly light-heartedly gossiping about you right now).
I studied Italian back at school in Australia (Melbourne considers itself a satellite Italian city), and have explored Italy on multiple trips, but this summer after visiting the Venice Biennale (amazing!) I decided to take a few days to get to know Verona. It far exceeded expectations. It’s an inexpensive 1¼ hour train from Venice – making it an excellent alternative base for visiting the Floating City – but honestly Verona is an incredible destination of its own.
A World Heritage-listed city, Verona is packed with outstanding historic sights – Roman, medieval and Renaissance eras all feature. It’s a major Italian culture hub with the Arena di Verona hosting spectacular performances in the summer. In terms of shopping, there’s everything from luxury brands to independent artisans; and as it’s in the heart of the gastronomic Veneto region, Verona’s food and drinks scene is impressive.
When to arrive: Friday morning for a full weekend. Most shops close on a Monday.
How to get from the airport: Catch the shuttle bus from Verona Villafranca Airport to Verona Porta Nuova train station (15 mins). Taxis are expensive (that includes Uber). From the train station it’s a 1.6km (1 mile) walk to Piazza Brà – or take a local bus. There are ticket machines here, or tap your bankcard when you board the bus.
Getting around town: Verona’s historic district is large but walkable. Streets around Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s House) do get crowded during peak times. Local buses, that run around the outside of the old town, are inexpensive and frequent.
Where to stay: The Hostello for a dorm bed in an historic neighborhood, Corte San Mattia for a rural escape a 20-minute bus ride away, Due Torri Hotel for Italian opulence.
What to pack: Denim says “tourist”. Pack something comfortable and stylish. Good walking shoes are essential, you’ll cover a lot of ground.
Day 1: Hit the major sights
Morning: Leave your bags at your accommodation and get yourself to Café Carducci for an espresso, cornetto (croissant) and plate of fresh fruit. Next, walk 15 minutes to the Funicolare di Castel San Pietro to either ride the cable car or – if you’re fit – climb the stairs up to the Castel San Pietro for breathtaking views of Verona, the Adige River, and the villa-dotted hills behind you. This is the perfect way to get your bearings.
How to spend the day: On your way back down, pop into the Archaeological Museum at the Roman Theater to see ancient artefacts and where they were found. Now head across the Ponte Pietra – a painstaking reconstruction of the original Roman-era bridge (completed in 100 BCE but destroyed during WWII) – and enter the historic quarter.
Head first to the Duomo, an awe-inspiring medieval-era cathedral with an extravagant Renaissance interior. Admire those very Italian frescoes. Next, the Gothic Basilica di Santa Anastasia for more frescoes, plus a holy font featuring a gnarled hunchback.
You’ll be hungry now, so go to Piazza delle Erbe which is lined with cafes and restaurants. Take your pick. There are plenty of good options here and along the lanes nearby (try Via Fama). Fancy a post-meal coffee and pastry? Pop in to Pasticceria Flego. Fortified, you can now hit the top three sights of Verona.
First, the Torre dei Lamberti gives you another vantage point to see the city with 360-degree views from its 84m (275ft) watchtower. Next, channel your “tourist zen” as it is time to join the throngs heading to Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s House). You don’t have to pay to enter the courtyard to see Juliet’s balcony and the tourists taking turns re-enacting that famous scene with a smitten Romeo. Romance lovers can pick up some kitschy souvenirs. Now, of course, this was never Juliet’s house. It doesn’t matter – just enjoy it.
Now on to another of Verona’s highlights: the Roman Arena di Verona and neighboring Piazza Brà, the city’s main square. The Arena predates the Colosseum in Rome and is well worth going inside. If you’re here for a show, hold out until dark and see it lit up at night. You’ve done a lot today, but wait – there’s more.
Dinner: If you’re going to splurge, tonight is the night. Get organized well ahead of your visit for a meal at Michelin-starred Casa Perbellini or Il Desco. If these are booked out (or out-of-budget) book a table at Al Condominio (pay heed to the no phones policy, if you want a photo they’ll take an instant shot of your table for you).
After dark: Keen to kick on? Head to Le Cantine de L’Arena for some live music (mostly, but not exclusively, jazz), or venture to one of Verona’s small cocktail bars for some theatrical creations. Try the diminutive Archivio; pop into riverside Terrazza Bar Al Ponte (particularly if it’s a warm evening); or cross the Adige for a more local experience at Grande Giove.
Day 2: Get outdoors
One of the best things about Verona is its easy access to nature. Think ancient roads leading up to stone villas surrounded by vineyards and olive groves; gravel paths through forested hills; or touring to Lake Garda for a cold-water dip in its unique blue.
Morning: Grab some snackable fuel from one of the food markets or grocery stores near your accommodation, and a coffee and pastry from Pasticceria Caffetteria Al Duomo then choose your own outdoors adventure.
How to spend the day: Walkers can hike into the hills, either straight from Verona by foot, or catch a local bus some of the way. Take bus 23 to Avesa then follow the Val Borago trail into a canyon-hewn nature reserve. On the downhill walk back to the city, stop at Corte San Mattia – where the menu is centred on produce from the owners’ farm – for an antipasti platter, a sitdown meal, or an afternoon of wine tasting. This agriturismo is also the perfect spot for pink and orange sunset views over Verona. A bus, or walk, will deposit you back in the city in 20 to 30 minutes.
If a cycling tour excites you, hire an ebike (the hills here are steep!) from one of the outfits in town like Itinera Bikes. Preload directions for your day-long self-guided excursion onto an app (don’t forget a spare battery pack to keep your phone juiced up). If you’d prefer an in-person guide, this can also be arranged. You can ride to Lake Garda via stone villages for views and a swim, or tour the boutique wineries of Valpolicella or the Soave valley.
Dinner: Prebook a table, by phone or in person, at an osteria (casual tavern) like Osteria da Ugo or Osteria al Duca – or follow your instincts and pop into any authentic-looking place with a menu posted outside, or join the outdoor tables in a lane or square.
After dark: Of course, you’ve already booked your tickets to the opera; this is Verona after all. This a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I say that as someone that doesn’t even like opera. Seeing a performance in an ancient arena under the stars is tears-in-the-eyes worthy. Check the 2025 program and plan your trip around it. There’s also ballet, choral concerts and orchestral gigs, and ticket prices are very reasonably priced (that, or I’ve been living in London for too long). In winter, you’ll be going to the Teatro Filarmonico instead.
Day 3: See artworks and go shopping
You’ve seen the best sights, eaten well, toured the countryside and caught a wonderful show and drunk sumptuous cocktails. Today is your day to roam Verona like a local. Luckily shops are open on Sundays (Monday is the rest day here) so you can buy some gifts or – if you’ve been inspired to try to live more Italian – pick up an elegant new outfit, shoes, gloves, luggage, hats and homewares.
Morning: Start with a coffee and cornetto at Caffè Borsari.
How to spend the day: After 10am head to Galleria d’Arte Moderna Achille Forti (back by Torre dei Lamberti) which shows works from the mid-19th up to the mid-20th century from Forti’s private collection, as well as temporary exhibitions of contemporary art.
Next, it’s time to squeeze in some shopping along Corso Porta Borsari and the pedestrian-only high street, Via Mazzini which runs between Piazza Erbe and Piazza Brà. Many of Verona’s back streets also house smaller local designer boutiques. I recommend wandering semi-aimlessly, stopping for food, drinks, people-watching and serendipitous connections.
Finally, history and art buffs will want to make time for the Museo di Castelvecchio, where you can walk the medieval ramparts and admire the (mostly religious) art works of Veronese and Venetian painters from the Renaissance.
You’re now just a 20-minute walk (or bus) from Verona Porta Nuova train station to head home – or to your next destination – after having fallen in love with Verona.
