I’ve long been fascinated with the Balkans and have been exploring the region for over 15 years now. Belgrade – with its legendary nightlife, brutalist architecture and lively taverns – ticks all the right boxes for me for an ultimate (and super affordable) weekend away.
It’s taken time, but it definitely feels as though the spotlight is on the capital of Serbia – buoyed by its selection as EXPO 2027 host and a subsequent $18 billion government investment pledge in the country’s infrastructure.
The following guide will take you on a tour of the city’s top sights, with a few of my own favorites thrown in. It’ll cover Belgrade’s rich culture and evolving gastronomy, as well as (of course) its thriving club scene. Get ready for a few late nights.
First off, some practical tips:
When to arrive: Jump straight into the action on Friday morning and fly out Monday. That’ll give you a good amount of time to hit the sights and party, with a little recovery time on the Sunday evening for those nursing a hangover from the night before.
How to get from the airport: The A1 minibus or local bus 72 run from the airport to the city center. It is a short taxi ride from the airport to the city center but be wary of expensive touts. The best option for taxis is to book via the taxi information desk near the baggage collection area where you’ll be given a receipt with your fare on it. A ride should be around 2400–2900RSD (€20–25).
Getting around town: A single ticket for the bus or tram costs about 50RSD and can be purchased from the MojKiosk stands or via SMS through the Belgrade Plus website. Unlimited BusPlus daily cards are also available on the site. Taxis are easy to flag down. Look out for ones displaying a large taxi sign on top, or consider downloading the Pink Taxi app (the city’s version of Uber) for extra convenience.
Where to stay: Townhouse 27 is a stylish boutique option on a quiet central street near Republic Sq. There are decent chains like Mama Shelter and clean and friendly hostels such as Hidden Gem.
What to pack: Casual wear works best during the day. It’s wise to bring layers, and a coat is essential for the colder months. If you’re going out partying at night, bear in mind that smoking is still legal indoors for the hospitality sector, so your clothes will smell of smoke when you leave.
Friday
Morning: Check into your hotel and make a beeline for Republic Sq. This is one of the main meeting spots in Belgrade, so it’s a good central place to kick off your weekend. Head down Francuska St on foot towards the city’s hip Dorćol neighborhood for a quick caffeine fix. I like DRIP Speciality Coffee (and its resident dog), but with some of the city’s finest cafes found in Dorćol, you can take your pick of any in the area. Forum and D59B are great nearby alternatives.
Amble to Kalemegdan Park and spend your morning exploring its expansive grounds, which are best known as home to Belgrade Fortress. Stroll through Stambol Gate up to the viewpoint, with panoramic views of the city (and amazing sunsets). Look below to see where the mighty rivers Sava and Danube meet.
How to spend the day: Hop in a taxi to Skadarlija for lunch. This is the city’s cobbled bohemian quarter that, during the 20th century, was a popular hangout for the poor Yugoslav poets and writers of the time (a kind of Belgrade Montmartre, which is why the areas twinned in 1977). Mooch through the tree-lined strip and visit some of the local art galleries and antique shops before dipping into one of the many restaurants on offer. A local favorite is Dva Jelena for its live music and classic dishes like homemade pork sausage, or try Tri šešira (“Three Hats,” a former craft workshop which is where it gets its name). This is where famous Serbian poet/painter Đura Jakšić would drink. After lunch, head to the National Museum of Serbia, which is about a six-minute walk on foot and your last activity of the day. Inside, you’ll find a good mix of ancient artifacts, medieval art and modern exhibitions.
Dinner: Belgrade is famous for its kafane (cafes or taverns), serving up Serbian food in a traditional setting (think red and white chequered cloths and lots of wooden interiors), often with live music. For your first night, try Znak Pitanja (“Question Mark”) near the waterfront, which is thought to be one of the oldest kafane in the city still going. Try the beef goulash or maybe prebranac (a baked bean dish, usually made with lardons). The punjena paprika (stuffed pepper, with minced meat and veg) is also tasty. Pickles and salad on the side are a must.
After dark: Belgrade’s party scene is legendary, and the city’s splavovi, or “river-barge nightclubs,” offer a unique experience. There are loads to choose from. Hop between the bars before diving into one of the clubs. 20/44 is a local favorite and a good option if you’re into electronic music (it’s also known to play a little jazz). If electronic music isn’t your thing, Lasta is known for its pop, funk and R&B nights (the popular Sunday afternoon event called the Lasta Matinee has a more chilled-out vibe). A word of warning that during the summer months, they can get busy.
Saturday
Morning: Start your day in Zemun, a pretty neighborhood right on the bank of the Danube River. Once a border town between the Ottoman and Austrian Empires, this only officially became part of Belgrade in 1934, so it has a real independent spirit. Eat uštipci (a type of doughnut) for breakfast at Ciribu Ciriba and then spend your morning wandering around. Don’t miss Gardoš Tower (also known as the Millennium Tower), a beautiful building famed for its great views, and a stroll down the riverside.
How to spend the day: The city’s brutalist and modernist architecture is totally unique and one of my favorite things about Belgrade. Spend your afternoon hopping between its most significant buildings either independently or as part of a tour (like the guys at Yugotour, who drive you around in a classic socialist-era Yugo car). If you’re doing it sans tour, don’t miss one of the city’s most iconic brutalist buildings Genex Tower (also known as Western City Gate) and Belgrade’s government building, the Palace of Serbia. Or the Silos at the edge of the city where street festivals are and events are regularly held. Finish off with a visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art down the road (another super interesting building due to its unique angular design by post-WWII architects Ivan Antić and Ivanka Raspopović), or if you’d rather a little history, try the Museum of Yugoslavia, although that’s about a 20-minute car ride away.
Dinner: A number of chefs in Belgrade are really expanding the city’s food scene. Michelin-starred Istok (Vietnamese) has a great range of pho options or addictive banh baos (steamed buns) filled with pork, fish or duck. Angry Monk is an excellent choice for sushi and cocktails. Fine-dining restaurant Homa has dishes like bone marrow and mustard ice cream or a traditional roasted suckling pig. It also has a heritage tasting course (€115 per head) that changes with the seasons showcasing local produce like kajmak (an unripened cheese, a bit like salty clotted cream) or smoked meats, with a wine pairing option. A more affordable option is Iva New Balkan Cuisine, with prices for mains ranging between €14–21 (the average price for lunch is around €14.50). They’re all within walking distance of each other in Dorćol.
After dark: Head to Cetinjska after dinner for a few pre-drinks. Once home to a brewery and massive car park, this area has become a thriving industrial-style drinking hot spot after bars started moving here in 2015 when the brewery declared bankruptcy. Berlin Monroe is good fun (last time I was there regulars were belting out ’90s pop classics at the tops of their lungs, cigarettes and drinks in hand). When you’re suitably warmed up, catch a taxi to cult night club Drugstore for a late night of dancing in what was a former slaughterhouse (things get going around 2am and roll on into Sunday). Get advanced tickets if you can. If it’s sold out, Karmakoma next door also runs great techno nights.
Sunday
Morning: Wake yourself up amid the hustle and bustle of vendors selling all sorts of local treats at Kalenić Market. This is where residents pick up their seasonal fruit and veg, as well as cheese, cured meats and a whole range of homemade baked goods, pickles, jams and fruit preserves. Grab a coffee at one of the cafes and enjoy the atmosphere.
How to spend the day: Take a short walk to Sveti Sava Temple, the largest Orthodox church in Serbia. Explore its stunning interior (including its mosaic-covered dome) before heading to the UNESCO-protected archives at the Nikola Tesla Museum. If you’re peckish, head to Pekara Trpković —Slavija, one of the oldest bakeries in Belgrade that makes some of the best burek (heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese) in the city.
If you have the time, eat it on the way the Old Palace, the former royal home of the Serbian Obrenović Dynasty (a 15-minute walk away) and then head to the city’s main pedestrian strip, Knez Mihailova. Amble down for a bit of shopping (you’ll find all the high street brands here, along with designers, perfume shops, places to pick up souvenirs and more) before dropping into one of the many cafes or bars (particularly towards the end of the street near Pariska St) to relax with a well-earned drink. On warmer days, local street artists and musicians will be out and about to watch, but this is also a nice part of town to admire for its classic 19th-century Balkan architecture.
Dinner: Have your final dinner at the wonderfully delicious Kafana Suvobor. I love to go big at this place because the prices are reasonable and the flavors are bold. Order the buttery flatbread and ajvar (a roasted red pepper dip) and kajmak to start. Follow up with ćevapi (a type of kebab), sausage and smoked pork neck. Don’t miss the potatoes roasted with smoked pork lardons until they become soft and sticky – honestly, they’re to die for. Srpska salad (similar to a Greek salad) works well on the side, and so do the roasted peppers in oil. All of this, plus two glasses of wine costs around €50.
After dark: Belgrade’s craft beer scene is excellent, so have a few farewell drinks at one (or a number) of its pubs. Gunners Pub, Samo Pivo and BeerSheep are all within close walking distance to Kafana Suvobor. Živjeli!
